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PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA |
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As an Energy Star® Partner, Energy Kinetics has determined that this product meets Energy Star® guidelines for energy efficiency. |
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When To Upgrade...
There are many good reasons to upgrade, and cutting fuel costs with higher efficiency is often at the top of the list. Read more below to find out about what to look for in heating system and see if you can cut heating costs even if your heating system is relatively new. Here are a few common reasons to upgrade:
- Cut fuel costs with higher efficiency
- Cut greenhouse gas emissions
- Replace older equipment which is no longer reliable or has failed
- Improve home comfort
- Expand use and need more output in heat or hot water; a home addition is an example
- Improve comfort and efficiency with pools or spas
- Improve home resale value
The best indicator of high efficiency is low idle loss, or how much heat is wasted when the boiler is off. The AFUE or yellow energy guide rating is supposed to indicate average usage, but is generations behind today’s technology and virtually ignores idle loss.
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Existing System Checklist |
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Here’s what to check for to see if your boiler has high idle losses:
1. Is your boiler or furnace room hot, or is your boiler hot when it’s not making heat or hot water (especially during the spring, summer and fall)? If so, your system most likely has high idle losses and there’s a good opportunity to save significantly on fuel bills.
2. Is your boiler properly sized to the heat loss in your home? A boiler that has too much capacity typically runs in short cycles and is less efficient than a properly sized boiler. If your burner cycles on and off during the coldest days of winter, it has too much capacity; longer off cycles indicate more excess capacity. The efficiency of boilers with high idle loss drops rapidly with too much capacity. Boilers with very low idle loss operate much closer to the rated efficiency. Review potential savings and a heat loss estimate based on your fuel use here.
[ Calculate Savings ]
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Low Efficiency Boiler Control
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3. Does your boiler only have an operating (low efficiency) control? This is usually a gray temperature control box about the size of a book which is mounted on the boiler. Some have digital readouts, although most only have internal dials for set points. If you don't have an additional control this is most likely what your boiler has.
A control that adjusts to outdoor temperature can moderately improve efficiency.
A separate energy saving control, called a hybrid energy recovery control or boiler purge control keeps the boiler cool when it’s not running and virtually eliminates idle loss for the best efficiency.
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4. Is your hot water made in a coil in your boiler, in a water tank with a metal flue, or in an electric water heater? Hot water stored in a separate water tank with no flue and heated by a boiler with low idle loss will significantly cut hot water fuel consumption. Although electric hot water is efficient in your home, power plants typically convert and deliver less than 30% of the energy burned to make electricity. This makes electric hot water very expensive and inefficient.
5. Does your boiler, furnace, or water heater have a pilot light? Pilot lights continuously drain energy which also increases idle loss. A pilot light is like a beacon that indicates older equipment; very significant savings can be achieved by upgrading these systems.
6. Is your heating duct system well sealed and insulated? Poorly sealed and un-insulated duct work, especially in unheated spaces, can lead to tremendous heat losses.
If you answered yes to any of the above questions, you have a good opportunity to cut your heating bills.
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Where Do Your Energy Dollars Go |
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How much of your home's energy is used for heat and hot water?
To find out more about conservation and the impact of saving energy and renewable energy sources, click here.
Chart source data from Energy Information Administration, Office of Energy Markets and End Use, Forms EIA-457 A-G of the 2001 Residential Energy Consumption Survey, New England and Mid-Atlantic states. Air conditioning percentage is an aggregate for the region and may not be representative of specific home usage.
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